Lahore has undergone various changes over the years. The biggest perhaps being the scale in its crowding and the urban sprawl. The water may not be as safe to drink from the tap and it may also not be too safe to sleep outside during summer nights. It may have more than its share of heat and dust.
Lahore is not a federal hub but it remains the hub of socio-cultural activities.
It abounds in art exhibits, poetry, recitals and book launchings. Nor is there any paucity of seminars on socio-economic issues. Indeed, a sophisticated western capital would be hard-pressed to rival Lahore’s incessant flurry of activities.
The other evening, I was asked to inaugurate the artwork and paintings of the late Anna Molka (of Polish-Russian background) who founded the Department of Fine Arts at Lahore in 1940. The caliber of the work, the range of subjects covered - including war, death, Muharram ceremonies, rural Punjab landscape, poverty and partition - were world-class.
Despite the hustle and bustle, Lahore retains its essential civility. There are four major English language daily newspapers coming out of Lahore. It is a provincial metropolis but it has an international feel to it.
Indian visitors who came to witness cricket matches told me that Lahore continues to exercise a powerful fascination especially among Northern Indians. Despite tumultuous changes, its inhabitants maintain the warmth and generosity traditionally associated with Lahore. Indian visitors were constantly stunned when shopkeepers et al. refused to accept payment. The common refrain of the visitors was that this could never be reciprocated across the borders.
Lahore is a good place to eat for all classes. Amazingly, even today, one can have a nutritious meal of dal-chaaval or nan-channa for under Rs. 15, i.e. roughly a quarter in American terms. Gourmands with international palates can exercise their taste buds if they so choose to try Japanese, Thai, Italian or other continental cuisines.
Also, Lahore continues to lead the nation in schooling. Take, for example, the case of the 140-year old Forman Christian College at Lahore, which was founded by American missionaries of the Presbyterian Church in 1864. The President of Pakistan, the Principal Secretary to the President, the President of the ruling PML, the Secretary-General of the PML, the Chairman of the Pakistan Senate, the Chief Minister of Punjab and the Foreign Secretary of Pakistan are all Formanites. two Indian Prime Ministers, Gulzari Lal Nanda and I. K. Gujral, were Formanites.
When all is said and done, Lahore seems destined to remain the cultural epicenter of the Sub-continent.
